Battery Supply…

Thanks…but what about the 4pole between LBS-P and LBS-M ? can you make a drawing which pin stands for what as there are two lines of power, one high current, one continous power as i understood the manual ?

Thanks a lot…I was just wondering about the 3.3V vs 6.6V options as I am now soldering the batteries…: Are both voltages possible for the fifo / dac ? Or only 3.3V ?

Finally I assembled everything.

So, first power on…only the main switch of the charging psu is on…the switch on the actual battery board is open…:

– three slow blinks …battery fault…means what ???
– when I switch the switch on the battery board on (it not a push button, but a normal toggle switch)…led starts to blink fast 9-10 times and than goes back to slow three times blinking.

So, before I now try to set the charging current etc…what does battery fault mean ? Is this expected behavior ? I dont have a load on the battery supply right now as I want first to see it giving me the right voltages before I connect it to anything.

Correction…i forgot to out the little switches in the board to “on”…now the led is slowly going on and off…simulating my heart beat…

When those switches have been off, all rails where zero voltage except the 13.3V rail, that had output voltage ?

I rechecked and it seems that relais are clicking, voltages are there in battery mode, but the continous voltage for the clocks when battery mode is off is gone.

Thanks…sorry to bother you again, but my eyes are not that good anymore and I managed it to produce a flash again…

…when cutting leads on the back of the main battery board to have a short when my cutting tool cut a battery lead and made contact with a relais…

result: no more 12V to make the relais work and no more standby voltages for the clock…so I melted down the 12V reg I guess.

If there is a schematic or any advise which parts to exchange…that would be extremely helpful.

Yes, I got 18.8V on the one and 8.8V on the other connector…both unloaded…

I made the contact/flash/short in the middle of the board where I can only see relais and some diodes … so maybe something which switches between battery supply and constant supply is destroyed ? In battery mode I do have the voltage, it is only the issue when switching battery off…

I am happy to do all those measurements, but just to avoid confusion:

The three blinking LEDs are no longer the issue. That is solved. The reason for them to blink was that I did not put the little on-off switches soldered on the board to avoid long-term-discharging into “on” state when I powered up the first time. When putting those switches to “on” no blinking anymore.

The current issue is:

Everything works as intended, no LED-error codes etc. But when I power off (the battery board, not the powersupply board), there is no voltage on the clock-voltage (16V) rail anymore.

My suspicion is that either the relais or its electronic responsible for switching from battery supply to regulator supply do not work anymore or something on the path of the 18V voltage from the power supply board to the 16.6V output of the battery board is broken.

So, this mechanimn for having the clocks always powered on (even when batteries are switched off)is broken.

The Well Audio Said

You could measure the voltage on C108 with a DMM (positive leg), you should measure around 13V.
If there is 0V you could measure the voltage on the two terminals of R7 versus ground to understand if there is a shutdown condition due to current overload.
You should measure around 0V on both terminals, otherwise current overload condition occur.
Finally you could check R40 and R41, they are protection resistors which burn in case of persisting short circuit.

C108 has 13.5 V when the Power switch of the power board is on and the battery board switch is off. I got around 100mV on both ends of R7. R40/41 measures about 1ohm

Yes, I got both with 13.5V…

but when I switch on battery, I have a voltage only of 1.2V on J5.

battery on

– j4 16.5 V

-j5 1,2V

Well, is there anything else we can check ? LIke power supply for the relais ? Or exchange the relais?

There is no change when I switch battery part on: Its always 0V (measured between the two pins 1-8 you mentioned)

• This reply was modified 2 years, 1 month ago by multiblitz.
• This reply was modified 2 years, 1 month ago by multiblitz.

When I measure against ground, I have 12V when powering battery on and 16.8V when powering battery off on both pins.

I exchanged all of that…but nope. that was not it.

when I look at the pcb, i see around k4:

q6 and d9 which directly seem to have a function to provide the 12V for the k4 to work, no ?

not sure what the relais next to k4 does…

but that has well q4, q5, d8

I exchanged that relais as well just to be sure…

So, i guess exchanging those transistors/regs/diodes is the next step if you can provide the part number.

I have exchanged them…nope. Still 1.2V when battery is on and 13.6V when battery is off on XO (J5). So, whats next upstream ?

yes, i got this 16.5V on those pins.

Yes, it came installed with that one from you

Well, when I switch battery on I hear a relais klick, not sure which one (and I have the daughterboard as well installed).

When I measure the coils (VDC) and across the diodes (all the above you mentioned): I have always no Voltage across the coils, no matter if battery is on or off…which is weird as I hear at least one relais clicking…but maybe there is anotherone activated (maybe on the daughterboard) ?

I took the daughterboard out.

I hear the relay clicks, but the measurements are the same across those pins.

I measured now those pins against 0V (Output – of J5): with battery on I have 13.3V on each pin and with battery off I have 16.3V on each pin.

Q1/Q2 DMN6075S-7 is out of stock, how about: https://cdn-reichelt.de/documents/datenblatt/A200/MMBF170_ENG_TDS.pdf

I checked for broken tracks between the three relays…and visually as well as electronically the three coils are in parallel and no broken tracks are visible. The three relays dont work, no measurement of voltage across the coils possible.

The click of the relays come from the normal battery relays in the moddle of the board. There i can measure 13.4V across the relays and I can measure that the relays switch changes, giving the battery voltage to the output of the board.

Are there any other potential parts I should order from Mouse as we have a 50 Euro net ordervalue each time…It is more economical if I order more or less the whole BOM of potential broken parts than having to order each little diode/mosfet individually…

Thx for your continous support…

Movie sent…you will see:

battery off:

J5 13.5V

J4 0V

battery on:

J5 1,2V

J4: 17,4V

batteries are fully charged…

yes, i can comfirm 5V on q2 when battery is on and 0V when battery off.

Thanks for looking up q2 at reichelt…btw way the price for the relays etc is sometime half of mouser…a good source…

SUCCESS !!!!!

It was q2.

Ok, i started to use the battery supply now, for the clocks only at the moment.

My impression:

I get a more warm, soft image.

On the one handside its nice to have more musical flow. More analog some would say.

On  the other hand it sounds a bit veiled, less dynamic, less clear.

So, not a 100 percent result, more like a typical trade off.

I would like to improve this…any suggestions welcome. I believe some people used battery supplies and gave them a cap at the output nevertheless ? What would be the minimum to make sense ? If we talk several hundred uF, i could go MKP….

OK, my dear audio friend Doede gave in DIYaudio.com the advise, to try to use an ultracap in parallel of the output of the batteries.

So I ordered his suggestion: The Eaton https://www.digikey.de/de/products/detail/eaton-electronics-division/XTM-18R0626-R/10461229 a 18V bank.

I understand that there is an initial loading-procedure, so I could for example load the super-cap to the 16.3V with an external CC/CV-PSU (mine can do up to 10A) before connecting it to your battery supply (in order not to overload it).

Now, let think through what will happen when I connect it to your Battery-Supply.

I guess there are two options how to do it:

A. Connect the supercaps to J5: Than we have them as well in paralelel when your normal 13.5V standby-Reg kicks in…not sure if that is smart…if this will destroy the reg (?) either because the superreg has to high voltage at the output of the reg od drawing too muich current to charge itself again if the supercap has less than 13.5V…?

B. Connect the super cap to J4: Depending on how the relays work (need your input here…): If J4 is only active when batteries are “on”, than the supercap would try to charge itself from the batteries which still have the clocks supppled with current as the super cap hopefully did not get discharged by the clocks from last usage (to be verified…)

I am thankful for your thoughts …

correction…i continued to use it in normal battery mode and now it behaves like normal…

Ok, I tried B, but only with a 33000uF lytic (no supercaps) to start with…

Well…when switching on the batteries, the relais klick and after a second they immediately klick back and let the supply go im charging mode…that happens as well when the cap is precharged.

Now, what I observe is even without the cap: Once charging is done, I can switch on battery and the relais stay, so battery supply works. When I switch it off, even after only one second, the charging immediately starts again.

That was not the case before I started with this experiment…so I guess even with only a cap at the output aomething is broken, either a battery or one of these small three leg devices of each battery where the lanel is near impossible to read…